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-   -   How to do filework (http://ukbladesforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=311)

Geoff bos 05-10-2009 08:07 PM

How to do filework
 
Ive been asked by a few people to do a filework tutorial, when i first started playing with files there wasnt much info on the subject,and the info i found was very vague, so hopfully this might put a few of you on the right path.
If your not sure of your ability it would be a good idea to try this out on some scrap mild steel, or if you can get some, 3 or 4mm ali is even better.
This design is my own and its called horseshoe, youll need a few basic tools to get you going:)

1 a 6mm round chainsaw file
2 set square
3 scribe
4 4mm round file
5 3mm round file
6 needle file (blade shape)
7 vernier
8 black permanent marker
9 center punch
10 ajustable square
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1033.jpg
The first thing to do is get the spine nice and flat, i do this with 400 wet/dry paper
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1002.jpg
Then i use some tape to mark where the handle ends
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1004.jpg
With the knife in the vise, i use a permanent marker on the spine
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1006.jpg
Next i use a vernier to scribe a line 5mm from the handle
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1007.jpg
Now using the set square i scribe a line across the top of the spine
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1008.jpg
Now set the vernier at 10mm, and from the first line,mark of in 10mm increments, you should now have a spine that looks like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1010.jpg
Ignoring the first scribe line, use the blade shaped needle file, and mark the blade with small nicks, like this (one side of blade only )
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1012.jpg
It should look like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1013.jpg
Re set the vernier to 5mm,and scribe lines in the center of the nicks, like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1016.jpg
Now using the blade file, mark the 5mm lines(other side of the blade) so it looks like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1018.jpg
Now set the vernier to 1mm and run it along the top of the spine to achieve a line like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1023.jpg
Re set the vernier to 1.5mm, this time wipe the vernier along the side of the blade to get a depth line like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1025.jpg
Repeat this on the other side of the blade so you will end up with 2 lines on the top of the spine, and one on each side.
Start to open up the small nicks with the 3mm file,then open the 3mm nicks with the 4mm, youll notice that im filing to the line on the other side of the knife, but leave a small gap like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1029.jpg
Now use the 6mm file to open them up like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1042.jpg
Next, using an ajustable set square or a steady hand,scribe a line through the center of the arches, like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1050.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1051.jpg
Using the blade file,cut along the scribed line, but dont go over the center of the spine
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1056.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1057.jpg
When you have done both sides it should look like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1058.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1067.jpg
Using a center punch, add the dots like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1068.jpg
Now clean everything up , i start with 400 wet and dry, till i get through the grades all the way to 1500, wrap the w&d around a small rod to get in to the arches
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1071.jpg
Once you have everything at the 1500 stage and your happy with it, get the small mop on the dremmel and it should look something like this
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1076.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1077.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1082.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...rialno1084.jpg
If you have any questions or you dont understand certain parts, you know where i am :) get filing

Geoff

robbi 05-10-2009 08:16 PM

that is one spot on tutorial mate.....bloody brill !!

Bernie Garland 05-10-2009 08:18 PM

Exceptional post and tutorial Geoff,:thumbsup: but easier for me to send them to you :lol2::thumbsup:

Bernie

Geoff bos 05-10-2009 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernie Garland (Post 2786)
Exceptional post and tutorial Geoff,:thumbsup: but easier for me to send them to you :lol2::thumbsup:

Bernie

Why did i know youd say that :lol2: well at least itll get bowler off my back:D

Geoff.

Bernie Garland 05-10-2009 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff bos (Post 2787)
Why did i know youd say that :lol2: well at least itll get bowler off my back:D

Geoff.

Great minds think alike and all that :lol2:

Bernie

MartinK9 05-10-2009 08:31 PM

Great tutorial Geoff, thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:

Barn Owl 05-10-2009 09:01 PM

Excllent!

Wondered how it was done.

a6cjn 05-10-2009 09:02 PM

Excellent tutorial Geoff and the last pic really shows the high standard that can be achieved.
A couple of things I do which might help,
I started with a permanent marker but I found engineers layout fluid (or engineer's blue as I call it) better.
For marking out, I use a vernier but I also have some strips of steel, at 3,4,5 and 6mm wide which I find a little easier for marking out my spacings.
I'm sure this tutorial will be a great help to folk Geoff, well done mate.

Chris:)

Tom 05-10-2009 09:03 PM

Excellent tutorial Geoff
You have some precision filework going on there...

Nice :)

Tom

Geoff bos 05-10-2009 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a6cjn (Post 2793)
Excellent tutorial Geoff and the last pic really shows the high standard that can be achieved.
A couple of things I do which might help,
I started with a permanent marker but I found engineers layout fluid (or engineer's blue as I call it) better.
For marking out, I use a vernier but I also have some strips of steel, at 3,4,5 and 6mm wide which I find a little easier for marking out my spacings.
I'm sure this tutorial will be a great help to folk Geoff, well done mate.

Chris:)

Cheers chris:) im allways up for new ideas, especially when they come from yourself, ill get some strips cut and try your method :thumbsup:

Geoff.

TeeDee 05-10-2009 10:15 PM

Hats off to you Geoff ,i think that is probably , no, strike that . THAT IS the best tutorial i have ever seen on anything bushcraft related.

Thank you for taking the time to do that for the benefit of the forum.

Brilliant work .!!!!

robbi 05-10-2009 10:50 PM

hear hear !

Stabber 06-10-2009 12:27 AM

Looks great Geoff!! Thanks for sharin the pics!!:thumbsup:

keen-edge 08-10-2009 11:18 AM

awsome work going to give that a try can i ask when you start the other side do you start at the scribe you ignored on the first side ?thanks phil

FGYT 08-10-2009 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a6cjn (Post 2793)
Excellent tutorial Geoff and the last pic really shows the high standard that can be achieved.
A couple of things I do which might help,
I started with a permanent marker but I found engineers layout fluid (or engineer's blue as I call it) better.
For marking out, I use a vernier but I also have some strips of steel, at 3,4,5 and 6mm wide which I find a little easier for marking out my spacings.
I'm sure this tutorial will be a great help to folk Geoff, well done mate.

Chris:)

i also have vernier and a vernier hight guage for mark out i use a granite floor tile as a surface plate
you can make scribe blocks out of scrap 01 to give vaious hights to mark edge center lines and ie grind a chisel edge on a bit of 4mm and harden you have a 4mm hight scribe etc you can even grind both edges to give various hights
I mostly use them to mark taper lines to grind to on tangs and blades
but saves having a vernier etc

supurb how to BTW with proper detail and tips etc :thumbsup::thumbsup:

ATB

Duncan

keen-edge 08-10-2009 02:46 PM

1 Attachment(s)
had a go what you think:eek: i need some better tools:rolleyes::thumbsup:

Bernie Garland 08-10-2009 02:47 PM

Looking good :thumbsup:

Bernie

keen-edge 08-10-2009 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernie Garland (Post 3455)
Looking good :thumbsup:

Bernie

i give it me best shot :)

Geoff bos 08-10-2009 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keen-edge (Post 3454)
had a go what you think:eek: i need some better tools:rolleyes::thumbsup:

That looks great for a first attempt phil :thumbsup:
I dont file on the first line phil, i always leave a gap between the handle and the filework, but its up to you, if theres room, go for it:) its great to see someone having a go, not that difficult is it :)

Geoff.

keen-edge 08-10-2009 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff bos (Post 3465)
That looks great for a first attempt phil :thumbsup:
I dont file on the first line phil, i always leave a gap between the handle and the filework, but its up to you, if theres room, go for it:) its great to see someone having a go, not that difficult is it :)

Geoff.

thanks geoff but looking at yours i have a long way to go yet to reach anything like yours m8 i need to get a few more files then i will give it another go thanks for the info buddy:thumbsup:

bondy 08-10-2009 04:58 PM

Great tutorial Geoff :thumbsup:, thanks for taking the time to do it and for sharing.

keen-edge 08-10-2009 08:50 PM

2 Attachment(s)
had another bash at it just need to sand now any good geoff :thumbsup:

Tom 08-10-2009 09:03 PM

Very nice Phil....:)

Tom

Geoff bos 08-10-2009 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keen-edge (Post 3556)
had another bash at it just need to sand now any good geoff :thumbsup:

That looks great phil :thumbsup: the only thing i would do is file the arches a bit more across the spine, so it gives more of a horse shoe effect:), you dont have to, it looks worthy of a handle allready, but it will sharpen things up.

Geoff.

Geoff bos 08-10-2009 09:29 PM

This is the look your after, when the handle is filled the shoes look like this :)
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...tagpups027.jpg

Geoff.

keen-edge 08-10-2009 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mammoth (Post 3561)
Very nice Phil....:)

Tom

thanks tom:);)

keen-edge 08-10-2009 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff bos (Post 3567)
That looks great phil :thumbsup: the only thing i would do is file the arches a bit more across the spine, so it gives more of a horse shoe effect:), you dont have to, it looks worthy of a handle allready, but it will sharpen things up.

Geoff.

thanks for the kind words buddy will file the arches more like you say then put another pic up i am realy pleased with it thanks for the help geoff m8 realy good of you :thumbsup:

Geoff bos 08-10-2009 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keen-edge (Post 3576)
thanks for the kind words buddy will file the arches more like you say then put another pic up i am realy pleased with it thanks for the help geoff m8 realy good of you :thumbsup:

No problem at all phil, i ts good to pass things on mate :thumbsup:

Geoff.

keen-edge 08-10-2009 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff bos (Post 3572)
This is the look your after, when the handle is filled the shoes look like this :)
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...tagpups027.jpg

Geoff.

looks fantastic :thumbsup:

keen-edge 08-10-2009 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff bos (Post 3578)
No problem at all phil, i ts good to pass things on mate :thumbsup:

Geoff.

top man:thumbsup:

FGYT 09-10-2009 01:13 PM

heres one i did a couple of years ago and my first try at it (not htat ive done much since :rolleyes:) ripple on a taper tang not to even tho:blushing:

start at 10mm spacing and increase by 0.5mm each step then file to centerline etc

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...nifesetout.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...nifestfile.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...ifetopwave.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...ifeendwave.jpg

and just file to middle on the bottom no marking out

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...febtmdiamo.jpg

launditch3 09-10-2009 06:22 PM

Excellent tutorial!What do folks use to fill in between the filework and the scales?Is it coloured epoxy?

Geoff bos 09-10-2009 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by launditch3 (Post 3663)
Excellent tutorial!What do folks use to fill in between the filework and the scales?Is it coloured epoxy?

Yep, i use coloured epoxy :thumbsup:

Geoff.

Bernie Garland 09-10-2009 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff bos (Post 3668)
Yep, i use coloured epoxy :thumbsup:

Geoff.

Any chance of a tutorial how to do it Geoff,not for me, as i'll be sending mine to you :D

Bernie

Geoff bos 09-10-2009 07:57 PM

Yeah, sure bernie, next time i do one ill get some pics. :thumbsup:

Geoff.

keen-edge 09-10-2009 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff bos (Post 3668)
Yep, i use coloured epoxy :thumbsup:

Geoff.

:eek:were do i get that geoff do u have to use it :)

FGYT 10-10-2009 07:06 AM

you colour the epoxy you use on the handle with pigment powders

you can use the toner out of lazer printers for black etc

tho it is a pit of a pain to get mixed to start with

ATB

Duncan

Geoff bos 10-10-2009 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keen-edge (Post 3749)
:eek:were do i get that geoff do u have to use it :)

Hi ya phil:) i use araldite, there are a few different types, red and white is called rapid, turquoise and white is another fast drying version, but the one you need to use is called ARALDITE PRECISION, this comes in blue and white tubes and has a 24 hour cure cycle, the reason i use this is because when its fully cured it has a crystal clear finish, unlike the others that cure a milky white colour.
I mix the araldite first, then using a matchstick i add the pigment, you only need a small speck of pigment on the matchstick(hardly anything) to much pigment will make the mix soft, heres a link to the pigment:)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dense-Black-Pi...d=p3286.c0.m14

Geoff.

keen-edge 10-10-2009 09:21 AM

2 Attachment(s)
thanks for the info geoff top man think i seen that epoxy in wilkos:thumbsup:well i have opend them up a tad more like you told me m8 but not haveing the right size files is a pain so i am of to buy a few today ready for when i have another go this is my first one finished lol :thumbsup:

Geoff bos 10-10-2009 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keen-edge (Post 3774)
thanks for the info geoff top man think i seen that epoxy in wilkos:thumbsup:well i have opend them up a tad more like you told me m8 but not haveing the right size files is a pain so i am of to buy a few today ready for when i have another go this is my first one finished lol :thumbsup:

Exellent job phil :thumbsup: try and get some chainsaw files, they rip through really easy and last ages, i also have a set of the small files made by snap on, cost me an arm and a leg, but there still going after 10 years :)

Geoff.


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