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Old 29-12-2013, 12:32 PM
Gareth Bull Gareth Bull is offline
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I sent the blade in to my local engineers for surface grinding - this results in a truly flat piece of steel and also gets it down to the required size. The spacer needs to be the exact same thickness as the two washers plus the blade. In this case my blade is 2.5mm thick, the washers are 0.1mm x 2 so the spacer is 2.7mm thick. If your parts aren't parallel it will affect your action.

So here are the parts:


Design glued to the blade:

Now, the areas denoted by the letters are important. You don't want to remove too much material here. You can always grind more off - adding steel is far harder
Area A: this is where the stop in will sit in the closed position, take too much steel off here and your blade will touch the spacer - serious no-no.
Area B: this will be your lock face, leave more than you think here, it needs to be angled later so leave some steel to work with
Area C: This is the anvil for the stop pin. Grinding steel off here will move the point up in the open position. Again, leave yourself some breathing room.

Centre punch and drill through what will be your pivot hole. I drilled with a 1.5mm drill, this will fit the screw I'm using to hold the handle together right now. It'll allow you to put the knife together and see if you drilled in the right spot.


While we've got the knife apart we may as well do a couple more details. Here I'm jimping the lock, it looks cool and helps when disengaging the blade. Clamp the liner in the vice with something to protect it. I used some thin leather so the jaws won't marr the titanium. I did it at an angle to follow the dovetailed bolster - devil's in the details right? For those who haven't seen one - that's a jimping file I'm using, you line it up and go to town - it does all the work and every cut is evenly spaced.


The result:
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