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How To's and How Do You's Need a helping hand? Want to offer a helping hand? This is the place to post your questions and/or tutorials about knife making.

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  #11  
Old 20-06-2010, 11:02 AM
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great work, that looks awesome...
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  #12  
Old 20-06-2010, 01:01 PM
irbailey irbailey is offline
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Cheers for your comments fellas.

Scrumpy, You know your saw blades don't you?
Yep, all the steel I use comes from sawblades. I had my blades tested last year and it turns out they are 80CrV2, 1095 and 1075.
So much for the 'most saw blades are L6' theory eh?

Ian
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  #13  
Old 20-06-2010, 01:57 PM
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Great post, thanks for sharing. Look forward to the next installment.
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mmmm Shiny
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  #14  
Old 20-06-2010, 11:32 PM
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Wait no more! Here it is....
First job tonight was fitting the guard. Here's the centre marked out with marker pen and the verniers. I usually use 303 stainless, but this is some 410 kindly given to me by Marcus Lin.

Then the mill is set up with the nearest size slot drill.

Here's the mill in action. Before I had a mill I made 70 odd knives by drilling holes and filing them out by hand. a mill makes life much better.

Checking size with verniers.

Before I fit the guard, I file the tang with a chainsaw file. This gives a nice radius to prevent a stress riser when heat treating, but allows the guard to sit nicely.

If all goes well, it should look something like this. The guard should be either a hard push fit or need a little help from a hammer.
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  #15  
Old 20-06-2010, 11:42 PM
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Next step is to mill the finger groove out with a 5/8" slot drill. Believe it or not, the mill was running when this picture was taken.

Here's the end result.

I like to rough shape the guard before heat treat and handle fitting, as it saves building up lots of heat when shaping it with the handle attached.

As the tang is only short, I'm using rivetted tnag construction. Here's the tang piece ready for fitting.

This is fitted by thinning out the tang either with a mill or grinder. I prefer the grinder as it doesn't leave any sharp corners on the tang. The tang piece can be milled out or cut with a 1mm angle grinder disc and filed. It is held in place with a 5mm stainless pin which will be peened later.

This shows it from the side with the tang marked out where it will be shaped and threaded.


To be continued.....

Thanks for looking.

Ian
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  #16  
Old 21-06-2010, 12:01 AM
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Great post once again!!
Been thinking about the still mill shot, I think the shutter speed on your camera must be the same as the speed or quicker than you set the spindle speed on your mill, thus looking still.
Cant wait to see the finished piece, wondering what you will make the handle from?? Probably something quite inventive like a postmans leg!
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  #17  
Old 22-06-2010, 11:09 PM
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Ok, here's the latest installment.
Tonight was panic attack HT time. After all the previous work I was worried that it would split or crack when quenched. Being the six-fingered Norfolk inbred that I am, it never occured to me that doing a WIP on this having never done one before was such a bad idea.
Doing it and THEN posting the thread would have made much more sense!!
Anyway, firstly I normalised twice and stamped my name.

For this I use my two brick forge.

I then heated until non-magnetic and quenched in warm oil.
Thankfully it came out perfect
You can't imagine how relieved I am!!

After tempering in my (optimistically) pre-heated oven at 180c for an hour and forgetting to take pictures(!) I re-ground it and prepared to solder the guard.

The guard was soldered with MAPP gas and 2207 silver-tin alloy solder from CuPalloys which is excellent stuff.

After a very stressful night I halfheartedly cleaned the joint with 320 grit wet and dry. there's another day tomorrow and I need some sleep!


Thanks for looking

Ian
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  #18  
Old 23-06-2010, 08:26 AM
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Top work there Ian

Bernie
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  #19  
Old 23-06-2010, 08:40 PM
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Excellent work and a very informative walk through, cheers, for a novice just starting to grind a few shapes out of flat stock its great to see how to really make a blade from scratch, what amount of time have you invested so far?
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  #20  
Old 23-06-2010, 10:08 PM
irbailey irbailey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Maker View Post
Excellent work and a very informative walk through, cheers, for a novice just starting to grind a few shapes out of flat stock its great to see how to really make a blade from scratch, what amount of time have you invested so far?
Thanks mate.
As for time, to be honest I've got no idea! About 3 or 4 hours probably.
I don't take much notice of how long things take. Some nights I work until about 8 o'clock, other nights I'll be in the workshop until half one in the morning!

Ian
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