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  #11  
Old 29-12-2013, 12:36 PM
Gareth Bull Gareth Bull is offline
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Ok, now that the blade has been hardened and tempered, I grind the blade to final thickness and grind height:


Edge thickness:

It flares just before the run-outs but the majority blade is 0.25mm thick.

Now the grind is sorted it's time to make sure the blade is in the right position in the open and closed positions. Her's where I'm starting:


To raise the tip and align the spine of the blade to match the back of the handle, grind the area marked with the red line. Do a bit at a time and check constantly. As you get closer, it's advisable to step up to finer grits, this will make final polishing a breeze and stop you grinding too much away too fast


Close but not perfect - a little more to go:


Once you're happy with the open position you can start finalizing the closed position.
Starting point - note how the tip is sticking out the handle:


To drop the tip into the handle, enlarge the choil:


Again, do it bit by bit and check constantly until you're happy with the position and the tip is safely tucked away:
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  #12  
Old 29-12-2013, 12:37 PM
Gareth Bull Gareth Bull is offline
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Now that I'm happy with the blade stopping positions, I size the pins to final lengths:
Oversize:


Quick sand on the disc sander:

(I do use 2 hands this is obviously posed)

Flattened off pins:
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  #13  
Old 29-12-2013, 12:38 PM
Gareth Bull Gareth Bull is offline
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Now - the fun part The lock!

You can see here how much of an overhang I left - I'll need to grind that away:


Step one is to set the machine's rest to 8 degrees:

With linerlocks and framelocks you want your lock to be between 7.5* and 8.5* so I just go right in the middle at 8. Less than 7.5 degrees and the lock will bind on the blade, more than 8.5 and you run the risk of the lock accidentally dis-engaging if pressure is applied to the spine. 7.5 - 8.5 is the Goldilocks zone.

I put the flat of the tool against the flat, clean disc and line the rest up with the two white lines and lock it in place:


Now you can grind the excess off the lock. The notch I cut in earlier should make sense now, it allows you to grind only the lock face making things nice and neat:

Again, bit by bit is the name of the game - if you think I'm repeating myself, you'll understand when you make one - you must take the knife apart and put it together well over 100 times - no joke!

Success!!!! It's locking


Closed position:


Another view:


Now it looks like a knife! Just need to do various finishes and she'll be good to go:


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  #14  
Old 29-12-2013, 12:40 PM
Gareth Bull Gareth Bull is offline
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You might notice in the pics that I tapered my liner lock (the titanium lock), the reason for it is thus:



In the pic you can see the problem and how different makers get around it. Basically the problem is that because the ball protrudes into the cavity that the blade will close into, it needs to be able to move out of the way. If it didn't the blade would jam after about 1/5 of the closing arc.

Image A shows a pocket that's been cut into the handle material to allow the lock to travel out of the way. Great way of doing it but you need access to a mill.
Image B shows basically what I did in this tutorial. By tapering the lock it gives it just enough space to allow the blade to move - if you have a grinder you can do this.
Image C shows a framelock - no handle material to block the travel of the lock so nothing extra needed -easy peasy!

If you do use thicker titanium and need to cut a softening area, the jury's out on whether it's better inside or out. I cut from the outside on my framelocks so that it won't form a blade-like section on the handle where the chamfer and cutout meet.
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  #15  
Old 29-12-2013, 12:41 PM
Gareth Bull Gareth Bull is offline
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Here's the blade before the etch. The hollow is satin (1000 grit) and the flats are mirror polished.

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  #16  
Old 29-12-2013, 12:42 PM
Gareth Bull Gareth Bull is offline
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Here's how I etch my blades:

Firstly, these are some nasty chemicals so proceed with caution, good ventilation is always a must and keep your chemicals in tightly stoppered containers, well labelled and out of general reach. Ferric Chloride will lose effectiveness if exposed to light over time, I keep mine in a brown chemist bottle. Caustic soda I mix up as needed.

Last night I sprayed the blade with Positiv20. It's a photo-reactive spray-paint and dries dark green. Sorry about the photo - taken in a dark room with minimal light - photo-reactive remember


I then take one of my negatives and put a thin strip of tape along one edge:


I stick it in position, the tape helps hold it in place while I clamp it down with sharpened clothes pegs:


Once I'm happy with the placement I expose it to direct sunlight for 15-20 seconds. Make sure there are no shadows on the logo area and keep your hands still. 15-20 seconds is plenty, too much more and you'll "burn" the Positiv20.
After exposing it to sunlight the exposed paint turns dark blue and can be washed away with a weak caustic soda solution. I pour a couple drops onto the blade and after a couple seconds tha logo starts darkening and popping out of the paint. I then flush the blade in fast running water to remove the softened paint. Here's the result:


The logo should be sharp and shiny with no paint left inside of it. If you're unsure, re-apply caustic soda for a couple more seconds. I draw a"moat" around the logo with sharpie, it'll stop the acid running out of the area you want it in

I then put a couple drops of ferric chloride onto the area I want to etch. It's pretty viscous (as in the "thickness" of the liquid) so it forms a pretty stable droplet. You only need to cover the area to be etched but overlap the logo just a bit.

I count to 200 then flush the blade and check the etch. It'll etch better in warmer weather, I do a couple etches in winter. If necessary, re-etch NOW - once you remove the Positiv20 it'd be damn near impossible to get the logo back in the same position, so be sure before you move on.

Once you're happy the logo is nicely etched you can wipe the blade down with acetone to remove the Positiv20 - always a nerve-wracking time - I hate botched etches.
This one came out a beaut though - deep and dark - very chuffed:
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  #17  
Old 29-12-2013, 12:44 PM
Gareth Bull Gareth Bull is offline
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And here we go - final product
I went with a fine blast on the bolsters. I wanted it to be matte to bring out the polished micarta but not make it too "tactical" looking, hope you like it!

Open


Closed - nice and smooth, should ride nicely in the pocket.


Ultra slim profile


Mirrored liners contrast nicely with the bolsters, the fine jimping gives it a refined look


And that ladies and gent's is how I make my average linerlock - I some find it helpful!
Gazza
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  #18  
Old 29-12-2013, 04:46 PM
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Mike Bowler Mike Bowler is offline
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Stunning Mate thanks for the time and effort making this tutorial I'm going to have a go
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  #19  
Old 29-12-2013, 05:07 PM
robbi robbi is offline
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absolutley outstanding !
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  #20  
Old 29-12-2013, 10:55 PM
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Bernie Garland Bernie Garland is offline
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Absolute top stuff,i thank you for sharing your skills here

Bernie
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